Winemaker Wednesday: Domaine Luneau-Papin
Tell us about your property (how long it has been in your family, how long you have been making wine there, the size, any growing philosophy you might have):
The Domaine Luneau-Papin is the result of a marriage between two winemaking families ; the Luneau family (from the village of le Landreau) and the Papin family (from the village of la Chapelle-Heulin). Pierre and Monique were married in the ‘70s and created their own domaine in the ‘90s when parents of both the Luneau and Papin families retired. Their son, Pierre-Marie — after studying in Bordeaux and interning in Sancerre (with the Bourgeois family), Pauillac, Languedoc and Australia – joined rejoined the family business in 2005. He took over the cellars in 2007 when his father retired, becoming the 8th generation of winemakers in the family.
Our philosophy is based on the idea that there is not just one style of Muscadet, but an entire palette that is determined by terroir. Father Pierre began harvesting and vinifying separate parcels thirty years ago and we have 4 distinct terroirs : Schist, Michaschist, Granite and Gneiss/Serpentine (volcanic soil). We make 9 separate cuvées of Muscadet at the domaine. The lees aging for each one varies from 6 to 42 months and takes place in underground vats lined with glass, which is typical of the Nantais region. The 35 hectares of old vines are entirely hand-harvested by a group of 40 pickers. We consider ourselves among “the last of the Mohicans,” preferring the hands of humans who know and see over machines that simply do their job.
Like many of his contemporaries, Pierre-Marie sees winemaking in a larger context. He has learned from his parents and tends the family vines with family know-how, but also brings an environmental sensibility. In 2008, he started working the soil of his 4 hectare parcel (La Butte de la Roche) by hand and is expanding that practice year by year to the rest of the domaine. The conversion to organic farming is taking its time, in harmony with the realities of our climate (vineyards this close to the sea are prone to mildew) and of the business of winemaking. We don’t make much of a point of this process, because it is simply a continuity from father to son of our concept of terroir and shared philosophy of life, rather than a selling point.
What is your favorite vintage and cuvee from your own property and why? 
Difficult to choose ! We selected 2:
“L d’Or” and “Excelsior” 2002.
2002 was a difficult vintage and we waited a long time before dicovering these fabulous wines ! It taste exotic agrum, spices and the nose is petrol like a old Riesling… Exceptional! Great restaurants (*** Michelin guides) love theses vintage wich could be served with a palette of dishes unknown with Muscadet like Thaï foods or Indian food.
“Terre de Pierre” 2008.
First millesim for Pierre-Marie with this plot which is a long story…His parents tried to buy this fabulous terroir 10 years before but they lost it. In 2008 they had the opportunity a second time and they won!! Very hard vintage from the climate. We had a bad frost on the 6th of april 2008 and all Muscadet AOC lost 50% of their crop. This vintage was very stressful but, it turned out to be the begining of a beautiful new story for the young winegrower and the vineyard! It tastes very mineral and big. Citrus and stone juice! The wine was bottled on the 10 th of november 2009 (the day before the 30th birthday of Pierre-Marie).
When you are not drinking your own wines, what are you drinking? What other wines, beers, etc. do you enjoy?
In general, we love Loire Valley Wines. We have been fortunate to meet extraordinary people who are winegrowers or restaurateurs and we discover each month mesmerizing wines ! We love Sancerre from Alphone & Emmanuelle Mellot and François Crochet, Saumur from Guillaume Keller, Vouvray from Domaine Huet, Chinon from Nicolas Grosbois, Saumur- Champigny from Bruno Dubois, Saint Joseph from François Villard, Deutsh Riesling from Jochen Beurer, Barolo and Barbera d’Alba from Renato Ratti (… and so much more!) and a beer during wine fairs with friends of course !
What is your favorite food and what wine would you pair it with?
Terrine de foie gras made by Monique Luneau with “L d’Or” 1999 or Comté and old Salers cheese with “Pueri Solis” 2005 !